Dark as a dungeon

The Bolívian town of Potosí has an economy that has been based on mining for hundreds of years. The Conquistadors found an abundance of silver in Bolívia´s oldest mine, now called Cerro Rico. The "notorious" mine tour was a real trip filled with interesting facts of history, small spaces and even some relious aspects. 100 Bolivianos ($ 14 U.S. dollars) bought me a ticket to where a lone miner was pounding away in the heat where light and oxygen are scarce. Don Carlos, our guide, is an ex-miner who called it quits after a few years striving in the dark dapths of the mountain. On the way to the mountain, we took a couple pit stops to put on rubber boots, outerwear, a helment and a lamp and stop at the "Miners´ Market". It´s customary to buy supplies for the miners and give them as tips for sharing their stories, workload and other insights. In Bolívia, it´s legal to buy dynamite, a fuse and a granular product that supposedly augments its effects at any age, or any intentions you may have for its use. There were bottles of 98% alcohol in the store as well. Don Carlos pointed out that the miners drink this because they are accustomed to such harsh conditions, they might as well drink some harsh concoction as well. At first we straight up didn´t believe him, but when he proceeded to pour a capful of the pungent solution normally used for cleaning and took a shot of the stuff, our eyes nearly popped out of our skulls. Yes, it´s true, rather than drinking tequila, rum, vodka, whiskey, absinthe or everclear, Bolívian miners essentially drink rubbing alcohol. I´m a man. Benja and Teresa (from "Bar-thay-low-nuh") bought two complete packages of dynamite and I bought a sort of juice supposedly meant for high altitudes, coca leaves and hand rolled cigarettes for the hard-working soul. Potosí is revered in the Lonely Planet guidebook as a UNESCO world heritage site that sits at just above 4,000 meters above sea level. Don Carlos said that without adding the coca leaves one by one to the bitter amalgamating ball of green goo in the side of your mouth, working in the mines would be impossible. La doble is a double shift in the mines consisting of 24 hours of back-breaking work. Good thing there´s coca leaves indeed. Even after I had a cheekful of the demonized plant´s leaves in between my cheek and teeth, added the bicarbonate/catalyst that helps release the plants restorative juices, I felt no unusual sensation whatsoever. Call it tolerance. Just kidding. Supposedly the leaves´ have the curative effects of suppressing hunger, combats the discomfort of extreme temperatures and even helps with digestion. When the Brazilian fellow was struggling with altitude sickness, the only "cure" that was given to him was maté de coca although he still continued to have no energy at elevation.

Crawling through tight spaces, walking through strange-colored puddles and climbing down rickety old ladders, we finally arrived at the place Don Luis was hammering away at the next spot in the mountain to be blasted. He was working in an are of about 3-4 feet in height, 5 or so feet wide, that extended further back into the mountain about 12-15 feet. This emaciated elderly gentleman had been working in the mines for 38 years. Three out of four of his sons also work in the mines with him, the youngest one being 15. After we had exited the mine, I asked why Don Carlos had stopped being a miner and his response was sobering after all the chewing of the coca leaves. Dark, dark humor. Anyways, he had one friend that had died, way before his time of "silicosis", and another of cancer so he decided to get out while he still could. The miners don´t wear any protection over their faces nor gloves. An actual dynamite explosion was next on the list, outside of the mine, that resembled the sound I would imagine a cannon to make. We stopped at one of the many refining plants in town where all the rocks and minerals taken from the mine are piled, sorted and sifted in an intricate process. They use chemicals in Bolívia to separate the minerals and ores into their pure forms using chemicals that are illegal in most other countries. I asked Don C about the environmental implications of the mining industry and his answers were along the lines of any hard-working man. It is imminently important that the miners are able to support their families through this industry, even if it is at the risk of their own health. But, I think there also must be a compromise in environmental health and economic well-being, otherwise the industry and the lives the workers try so hard to provide for may be lost. It seems though, that the majority of Bolívians in Potosí are mainly concerned with putting food on the table. A positive aspect is that it is not a uber-mining corporation that is entering into Potosí and reaping the benefits at the population´s expense, at least not directly. The mines on Cerro Rico function as a cooperative where each part is owned by a man who has worked fere for at least 10 years. No women are allowed to work in the mines because it would cause Pachamama to become jealous. So, despite potential health effects to the surrounding population, pollution to the rivers and crops that these rivers serve to irrigate, the decision to continue mining is being made by the same people it is economically helping. The Johnny Cash song "Dark as a Dungeon" was playing through my head throughout the whole tour. And indeed, Don Carlos informed us, some men become addicted to the possibility of "winning the lottery" and striking it rich within a particular plot of mountain space. I´ve added a verse and the chorus of the song sung also by Merle Travis, Dolly Parton, Jerry Garcia, probably among others, for your enjoyment.

Well it's many a man that I've seen in my day
Who lived just to labor his whole life away
Like a fiend with his dope and a drunkard his wine
A man will have lust for the lure of the mine

Where it's dark as a dungeon
And damp as the dew
Where the dangers are double
And the pleasures are few
Where the rain never falls the sun never shines
It's a dark as a dungeon way down in the mine